The silky hand-sliced Nova and prized smoked sturgeon at Barney Greengrass have drawn crowds to this Upper West Side counter since 1908, when the original "Sturgeon King" opened shop. The Rosenthal family still runs the James Beard Award-winning appetizing store, where Formica tables and gruff service feel like a birthright. Weekend mornings bring lines down Amsterdam Avenue for scrambled eggs with lox, piled impossibly high on proper china.
barneygreengrass.comPart of: Old Time Eatery Guide