Pasteur Grill & Noodles • 1987

Chinatown's oldest Vietnamese restaurant anchors Baxter Street's storied Vietnamese food strip, where Dennis Chung has simmered pho broth for seven hours daily since buying the family-run spot in 1995. The menu reaches beyond the classics with harder-to-find dishes like bún riêu, a sweet-tart crab and shrimp soup built from his wife's mother's recipes. Come for the fragrant bánh xèo crepes and shaken beef that still taste like the street food Chung remembers from his childhood in Vietnam.